A week in Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is often deemed a “stopover” city, a place not worthy of much more than a day or two. Although I am typically in favor of “speed traveling,” moving to another city every few days, I spent a full week in Buenos Aires and loved every minute. Check out my top picks for Argentine fun!

FOR FOOD LOVERS

Steak: Yes, the steak really is as good as everyone says. I was a vegetarian for years, came to Buenos Aires, and murder fucked a steak by my second day. I tried a few different places, but Calden de Soho in the Palermo neighborhood was my favorite.

Alfajores: If you still have room after that steak, get yourself an Alfajor: two cookies sandwiched around dulce de leche and (optional, but recommended) dipped in chocolate. The most famous place to get these is a store called Havana, with several locations throughout BA.

They now make Oreo alfajores AMEN AMEN AMEN

They now make Oreo alfajores AMEN AMEN AMEN

FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS

Palermo: The palermo neighborhood is home to the best Argentine boutiques. As a size 10, I could not buy or even stuff half a leg into anything (Argentine’s are tiny), but I still enjoyed people watching with a midday coffee in this affluent neighborhood.

wandering Palermo

wandering Palermo

San Telmo: Sundays in San Telmo is Where. It’s. At. This cobblestone neighborhood hosts a HUGE street market where you can buy antiques, books, art, and anything else your heart desires. Grab an ice cream at Nonna Bianca and enjoy it while watching couples dancing Tango in the main square.

I was invested in my ice cream at the time, but my new friend sunitha rao took this gorgeous shot

I was invested in my ice cream at the time, but my new friend sunitha rao took this gorgeous shot

FOR ADVENTURERS

When you think of the most beautiful skydiving locations in the world, I’m pretty sure Buenos Aires (or La Plata, the flat land outside the city) does not come to mind. That said, this was a blast of a skydive. It was inexpensive, safe (enough), and a higher altitude than most (It’s supposed to be 10,000 feet but give a little por favor and they’ll up you to 13,000- Gracias, Sebastian!). I have now done four skydives, and this one was the most memorable.

FOR CULTURE LOVERS

Recoleta: Spend a day in this ritzy neighborhood. The most famous of attractions here is the cemetery, where Evita’s tomb lies, but there are also some beautiful green spaces for picnics and cabarets to check out some tango

photo cred: Sunitha Rao

photo cred: Sunitha Rao

Free Walking City Tour: In several cities throughout South America and Europe, free city tours are offered. These are a fantastic budget-friendly way to see the main sites, learn a bit of history, and also get the inside scoop on trendy restaurants and excursions as most of the guides are young college students, working for tips. I found the free walking tour in Buenos Aires to be excellent. You will visit the Catedral Metropolitana and Avenida 9 de Julio. You will also walk to the Plaza de Mayo and the Casa Rosa and learn about the Dirty War. If you are there on a Thursday afternoon, you will see the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo march, as they have for almost 40 years, trying to learn what happened to their missing children. I could not recommend this free tour enough.

Street Art Tour: The street art in Buenos Aires is just fantastic. Spend a day walking around the city alone, scoping out different pieces (Villa Crespo, Palermo, and Colegiales are three neighborhoods with quite a bit, but you can find beautiful art throughout the city). There are also formal tours which can offer you a bit more history and details about specific pieces.

Ladies: Argentina is a really romantically, erm, aggressive country. Men can be pretty grabby at the most and vocal at the least. If you say “no,” that to them means “yes, but I’m playing hard to get.” Straight up ignoring means “no.” Also, if anyone says, “Telo?” it’s a sex hotel. Totally common and no stigma about them because most people live with their parents until they are married, but just keep it in the back of your mind